Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Changes are in Store

I have really lacked my old blogging motivation lately. I'm going to get back to it, but in the meantime I've made a momentous (for my dozen or so readers) decision to rework this blog to a different purpose.

For some time, I've wanted to write a few more general essays on cultural, philosophical, and political topics. Several times, I've been on the brink of starting a new blog for that purpose. One of the things that has held me back is the lack of a blog name.

Finally, I realized that the name I actually wanted to write under was the one I already had. I like this name, and it is appropriate to the tone and perspective from which I wish to write.

All of my previous, family-adventures-in-China posts have been transferred to a new blog. It is not confidential, but at the same time, I don't really wish for my two blogging worlds to mix. Therefore, I have provided no link. If you actually know me, please email me and ask for the new link. And if you don't actually know me, then convince me in the comments that I should divulge the new link.

Happy Trails.

AzA

Monday, February 22, 2010

Harbin - how cold can you go?

Well, it is time to finally get around to posting something again. This is from a couple months ago.

Being from Arizona, one could expect that I would not have a lot of experience with cold. One would be mostly right.

However, I do have some limited experience. Many people who are not from Arizona make the false assumption that the entire state is a hot desert. That is not true. About two-thirds of the state is mountainous, and some of that gets a fair amount of precipitation. Anyone who thinks Arizona can't get cold has never stopped for gas outside of Snowflake in January.

I have also lived in Utah. Northern Utah can get quite cold. I moved from Utah in the middle of the the winter of 1990-1991. The news story at the time was that it was the coldest Utah winter in a hundred years. My brother and I drove down to Arizona in my 1971 VW beetle. Every part of us were freezing except our ankles, which were being slowly roasted. If you have ever had personal experience with a Beetle's pathetic heater, you know exactly what I mean. I really did like that little car, but for the life of me I've never understood why those little crap baskets get so much adulation for their "clever design". "Different" is not necessarily a synonym for "smart". Sometimes car designers do things a certain way for an actual reason. Sometimes, it is just stupid. Powering the windshield washer fluid sprayer by means of your spare tire's air pressure is stupid. Directing the entire heater to blow through a small vent inches from your left ankle is stupid.

In any case, a few hours into the trip, my brother and I had to stop the car to adjust the load on the roof rack. That experience suggests a corollary to my statement about stopping for gas in Snowflake. If you can at all help it, never stop outside of Beaver in January to adjust a load on your roof rack.

Actually, there is one other reason that a person can get surprisingly cold in Arizona, and any of you who are actually from our fair state will totally understand how this works. The reason is this: because you are from Arizona, the land where the sun always shines, you have never bothered to buy a proper coat. Therefore, you are wholly unprepared when you actually need to venture into the true cold.

I was reminded of this about two years ago when we visited Emily in France. Standing in line under the Eiffel Tower in January, dressed in our totally inadequate coats, was just about the most uncomfortably cold I've ever been. And it was only around 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 Celsius).

That brings me to my current story. During the week after Christmas, we flew up for a quick visit to Harbin, China. Harbin is a major industrial center and transportation hub in northern China. It is directly north of Korea, and Northwest of Vladivostok, Russia. Because of its proximity to Russia, it has in some respects a distinctively European appearance. Not that we saw much of it, though, because we went for a very specific and limited purpose. Each winter, Harbin holds a huge Ice and Snow Festival of snow sculptures and life-sized ice buildings, lit from within by colored florescent tubes. It is amazing what can be accomplished by an army of workers getting paid no more than three dollars a day.

But for all the fame of the Ice and Snow Festival, there isn't a lot of other reasons to go to Harbin (the Russian Orthodox cathedral is said to be beautiful, but we didn't get the chance to see it). So we made the plan to go quickly, twenty-four hours in and out. The reason for that haste was the cold, and that is what I actually want to write about. There are more pictures on facebook if you are interested.

It was cold. 22 degrees below zero Fahrenheit cold. 30 degrees below zero Celsius cold. Cold like we've never before experienced cold.

We actually came quite well prepared. We bought and borrowed some true cold-weather gear. I do try to (slowly) learn from past experience. Perhaps most importantly, I contracted with a driver to take us around, so that we could get out of the cold whenever we wanted (and didn't have to try to find taxis in the cold and dark, and then try to get two taxis to find and drop all six of us off at the same place).

With all the preparations, it wasn't quite as bad as one would think. By which I mean that we didn't die. I really truly felt fully aware at all times that we were in cold that could literally kill you, and do it quickly.

With the exception of my feet, I was okay. Lee was quite miserable with her hands, but her hands are always cold. I swear that she has no circulation at all in them. The one time that I had my hand out of my glove messing with my camera for too long was a big mistake. I couldn't get it to warm up again for half an hour, at least, and the process was very painful. Lee's camera iced up, and at one point stuck to her cheek. My personal favorite was feeling my nose hairs crackle with ice if I breathed too deeply.

My final verdict? Well, the great ice buildings truly were spectacularly beautiful. I was very, very impressed. We all especially liked the enormous Great Wall of China ice slide. It was around two hundred meters long, it propelled you along at shocking speeds, only to shoot you into a snowbank in the dark. At that point, two Chinese workers would rush in to grab you under the arms, no doubt thinking that they were being helpful, but in reality making one flail in humiliation while you tried to stand up without being able to use your arms.

I would say that the Harbin Ice Festival is a once in a lifetime experience. I mean that it two different ways. First, because it was amazing. Second, because it was so cold that I never want to go back.


A long view, showing a variety of buildings. Many of the sculptures were copies of specific buildings, but I didn't recognize any of these.



Emma, on the steps of an icy facsimile of the Forbidden City.


The Colosseum. Not quite life-sized in this case, but still impressive.



Some visual aids for how cold it was. Note, in particular, the icicles on John's lashes. I'm not sure why we didn't end up with a picture of Emma like this. You might note that we had our special guest Ambra with us for this outing. I hope the look of shock on her face was just her mugging for the camera....


And finally, a shelf of Russian nesting dolls for sale in the Harbin airport. I was sorely tempted, but I was feeling really, really cheap at this point. Plus I didn't really like the selection.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Construction Scene

I haven't been posting again. Here is a quick entry of a common scene here in China. I can't remember whether or not this is one of my photos, or one I gathered from somewhere else (I've taken several much like this, in any case).

Sunday, November 22, 2009

All that glitters is not caulk

As I have written before, entirely too much of my life in China revolves around trying to fix things. First of all, that already is my nature, as I am an obsessive fixer. Second of all, every thing in China needs to be fixed.

This is no country in which to be an obsessive handyman, as I have mentioned ten or twenty times before. Everywhere I turn, something needs done or done right. However, this new item takes the grand championship.

I was walking down a hallway a few days ago. There is a large floor crack that has been covered with a metal threshold. The piece was sticking up well off the floor, so I pulled it off and set it to the side so that no one would trip over it.

I expected that the piece would be held down with caulk. Everything in China is held together with caulk. The only problem is that no one knows how to apply it.

This reminds me that I have a long list of caulk-related photographs that I have intended to post. I will get back to them, even though this particular entry is going to supersede all of them. Other than its general and appropriate uses, I have seen caulk used to do the following: hold down floor tiles, hang pictures, fix pipes, plug wall holes, and on and on. It's as if caulk was the first home-improvement substance they ever learned about, and they think it fixes everything. Caulk is the duct tape of China, except that it is even less useful than duct tape, which is actually only really good for, I don't know, sealing ducts? I was already horrified by how many lame attempts at duct tape repairs I see in America. It is far worse with caulk in China. There are likely to be entire buildings here held up with caulk.

Actually, that last one is a little too close to the truth. I don't like thinking about the construction of Chinese buildings, as I just barely noted in my last post.

Back to the caulk. I see it everywhere, but rarely have I ever seen it applied well. Honestly, I think that half the problem is that the Chinese construction boom is so vast, that anyone who has any legitimate skills and experience already has a job somewhere. The repairs are all left to the unskilled.

Whatever. Back to my story. I pulled up this metal threshold, and then inspected. I'd like you to look closely at the photograph and see what they had used to hold it down. Don't read ahead until you have guessed.



That's right, boys and girls... it was held down with....

GLITTER GLUE! That sparkly decoration that has graced millions of grade school posters!

I really should make more jokes here, but I'm speechless.


I went down the same hallway only 1/2 hour later. I'll say this for Chinese workers, they are prompt. They were already sticking it back down. This time, they were using a hot-glue gun.

I suppose that is better than using duct tape, but maybe that's next.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Maybe we should live in a Yurt

I don't have any time these days. Here's a quick one, borrowing from the efforts of someone else. An apartment building fell over in Shanghai. Link here.

Pray for us that there is never an earthquake.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

My New Favorite Book

Some months ago I found a book in the school library. The Longman's Visual Dictionary of Chinese is a treasure trove of laughs. I tried to find my own copy on the internet, but to know avail. So I have instead scanned a number of pages, and I will share them with you, dear reader, whenever I feel like it.

The pages cover almost an amazing range of topics. Some are absurdly specific. Most are useless. To say more would be to deprive you of the joy of discovery, so you will just have to wait until I make a new post. If, however, are visiting a Chinese machine shop anytime soon, and really need to know how to say "geared headstock" or "wheel flange" anytime soon, just let me know.

In the meantime, I will start with a page that teaches you necessary vocabulary that is much closer to home: underwear and baby clothes.




Now as you can see, there is a wide variety to choose from. All appear extremely uncomfortable. By the way, this book was published in Hong Kong in 1997, which was the year of the handover from Great Britain. I suspect that they just recycled pictures from some older book, however there are a few pages that almost appear to be calculated insults of the mainland Chinese as backwards and provincial. More on that later. The resolution on the page is good enough to see all the illustrations and text clearly if you click on the image. I will highlight just two.

This was my personal pick for "most uncomfortable looking underwear" (unless it is number 13). In fairness, I would hazard a guess that no one in China under the age of 75 is wearing anything remotely similar.




Now if the picture above looks like something Medieval, what you see below is actually still widespread in China. "Widespread", of course, is a very bad pun in this case, because that is exactly the pose in which you see a whole lot of Chinese toddlers, as their mothers hold them over gutters, tree wells, and sometimes the middle of the sidewalk. Sometimes the toddlers just decide to take care of business on their own schedule. A friend of ours got peed on by a little boy standing in a shopping cart next to her in line at a store.




Disposable diapers are for sale in the stores these days. They probably remain too expensive for most Chinese. If you want proof that bare baby butts are still a common sight in China, here is a photo for you. In case you are wondering, the front of those pants is just as wide open as is the back.



Occasionally, I feel guilty for taking surreptitious pictures of people, but they certainly don't have any compunction about doing it to us, so I guess it is all fair.

Finally, this one reminds me of another little saying we have around here: "China doesn't have a five-second rule".

Think about it.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Nothing to see here

It has been a very, very busy school year for everyone lately. That hasn't left me with much to write about (unless you really want me to explain how to diagram tariffs and quotas and calculate the resulting consumer and producer surpluses).

I don't have any new pictures. I still have a number of old ones stored on my other computer that I can use sometime. However, I won't be having any new photos anytime soon. That is because my camera was stolen.

Like most other minor misfortunes, at least I can milk a story out of it. Or at least a cautionary tale. A street thief got it from me in Shanghai. If I knew exactly how he did it, then I suppose that he wouldn't have been able to do it.

It is embarrassing really. I've traveled a lot of places over a lot of years, and never had anything stolen from me. That is because I always scrupulously followed my own rule, which was to never, ever put anything down. Last year, when I took a bunch of high school kids to Europe. I had coached them thoroughly about street crime. There is no way to be totally safe, but fortunately, not a single one of my kids lost anything. That was not true of the group of kids traveling with us, at least two of whom lost things to pickpockets.

To make a long story short: Lee asked to borrow my camera. I tried to hand it to her, but she wasn't ready for it, so I set it down next to my hip on a park bench while I used my cellphone. It was dark, there was no easy way to approach the bench from behind. Nevertheless, two minutes later, the camera was gone.

Oh well. One can't keep an unbroken record forever. On that note, traveling is a bit like riding a horse. If you keep riding horses, eventually one of them will throw you off. Likewise, if you walk enough public streets for long enough, the pickpockets will get you. They are professionals, and that is their craft.

Speaking of cowboy analogies, I suppose I can take solace that once, many years ago, they got my grandfather when he was in Paris. And that was no mere pickpocketing. They tripped him, and when he put his hands down to catch himself, they stripped bare his pockets. Big Don was, as the title implies, a very big, intimidating cowboy; and yet that didn't deter them in the least.

Then again, he probably looked totally lost in Paris, and that is all the opening it takes for those guys. I've seen the Gypsy gangs at work in France with my own eyes, and until you have seen them, you really can't fully believe how good they are at what they do. Even when you watch it, you can't truly see how they could clear someone out so quickly (and if anyone wants to call me a bigot for linking street theft to our Roma friends, then you haven't actually lived in Europe).

All in all, not a huge loss. Better than having them get my wallet or passport. It was just a two year old pocket camera. It did have some pictures on it I wanted, but nothing truly irreplaceable. I'll buy another one sometime, but I'm not looking forward to it. It is so hard to shop for electronics here. If you go to established stores, you are pretty much safe from the counterfeits. Still, it is hard to comparison shop, and the prices on anything Western quality are always just as high as Western prices (and often higher).

So no photos today.

We have had some extra teenagers staying in our apartment for the last three nights. They are here for a big athletic tournament, and the school was short on hosting arrangements. We were going to take two anyway, but we stepped in and offered to take four. A couple people have suggested that we are crazy for doing so. I reply that that may well be true, but it is only a coincidence.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

The People's Republic at 60

There has been a lot of fuss this week about the 60th anniversary of the People's Republic of China. If you watched any of the festivities from Beijing, they included a parade of military hardware much like we used to see from the Soviet Union. That has sparked yet another round of hand-wringing and panicky talk in the Western press about the future of China. Often, this includes a paranoia about China as our "next enemy", a term I have literally had people say to me.

I'm going to throw out my bold prediction here, however, and tell anyone who wants to listen that they don't need to worry about China, or at least not about China as a rising military superpower. I'll preface this by saying that I have no pretensions to great expertise. The only authority I have is that I read a lot (or too much, according to a certain someone in my household), and that I read without ideological prejudices (although I have plenty of them, I only get them after I read, and I make new adjustments all the time).

My first, and most basic point, is that many people don't fully appreciated how vast the gap really is between the Chinese military and the U.S. military. My second point is that China has yet to really demonstrate an aggressive military intention for the future (there are incidents, but very little truly militant or expansionist rhetoric). My third point is that I believe both of those issues, the questions of Chinese military capabilities and intentions, are largely moot. I have my suspicions that those questions are, in the long run, irrelevant.

The real factor that will shape the future is demographics. The size of the population doesn't matter as much as the ratio of ages within the population. China is racing the calendar, and it is losing. The Chinese are getting old faster than they are getting strong, or rich. The Chinese fertility rate is down to less than 1.8, and dropping. The median age is already 34 years old, and rising. The ratio of men to women is 1.2 to 1.

If you don't realize the implications of those numbers, I'll explain. Fertility rate is a measure of babies born per woman in the population. It requires a fertility rate of 2.1 to maintain a population (the ".1" being the extra needed to offset premature deaths in the population). A fertility rate of 4.0 or more will double the population each generation. A fertility rate of 1.0 will halve the population in the same time. China's population growth is virtually zero, and it is very likely to start falling. The rate among the educated, professional classes, the same people that are needed to sustain a vibrant economy, is even lower.

A median age of 34 is itself not especially high, yet. The U.S. median age is 36. The Japanese median age is 44. However, given the low birthrate, this is going to increase very quickly. The imbalanced gender ratio, itself a byproduct of selective abortions created by a cultural desire for boys (reinforced further by the one-child policy, because being allowed only one child, many families opt for boys, and there are ways around the laws prohibiting sex selection through ultrasounds).

The demographic shift has already taken hold. Many Chinese families are already looking at a future in which one worker supports four grandparents. In the case of families with a non-working spouse, that is one worker supporting eight grandparents. This will be a crippling burden for the Chinese. The punishing math would hold even if China had a public pension system, because the underlying ratio of young people to old will be true across society as a whole. This demographic challenge is very unlikely to reverse itself. Once people start having fewer babies, they tend to get used to it. (Side story: When I went into the school to pay fees for my three children to go to school camp, the secretary was aghast "Three children?" she blurted out in amazement, "one is enough!").

Eventually, the cumulative effects of not having those children adds up. The young people just aren't there, and their absence wreaks havoc on all the factors that actually make for a vibrant economy. It is the young who have the energy, confidence, and entrepreneurial zeal to drive a society.

I'm not predicting the imminent collapse of the Chinese economy here. The overall population size, and natural increase among some segments of the population (not all Chinese are bound by, or follow, the one-child policy), will keep China going for a long time. They will face economic challenges in the future, but all societies do for various reasons. But in the end, demographics drives everything; those that have the babies, have the future.

If you want a grand sweeping historical example, then look to the British, who rode the agricultural and industrial revolutions to world empire. People often overemphasize the technological advantages of Britain, but that is only part of the story. The more important part is that Britain was the first nation to conquer chronic food shortages and widespread childhood illnesses, which gave them a huge population surplus. Their many sons manned the Royal Navy, and staffed the thousands of military and administrative posts needed from Africa to India to Australia and beyond. That was the indispensable factor in British hegemony. Like I said, in the long run, those that have the babies win.

Europe, of course, is old news at this point. Literally. The European economy is untenable, with its lavish state welfare programs that cannot last because the workers that would support them simply are not being born, and it is doubtful that the immigrant workers who are by necessity replacing them will willingly support their European elders indefinitely. This should be a warning for those Americans who are so enamored of the European model, but that is a bigger topic than I want to go into right now. As for China, the most relevant current cautionary tale is Japan.

Do any of the rest of you remember the talk about Japan back in the 1980s? We were all told over and over about how the Japanese were on the brink of taking over the world economy. They were going to own everything. In case you haven't noticed, it never happened. The reason is simply that they got old. The Japanese fertility rate is down to 1.2. The median age, as I noted above is already 44. The population will literally halve in the next generation. Given the Japanese antipathy to foreigners and immigration, they are already having a terrible time supplying their own workforce. They are experimenting with incentives to lure ethnic Japanese workers to immigrate back from Brazil, to which thousands of Japanese families moved over the past few generations. It isn't working out so well (they don't act Japanese enough anymore, and there is perhaps no other culture on earth so unable to assimilate "others" as Japan). Never mind that, the young Japanese who are left are like to get sick of living in a geriatric society and emigrate out. There goes all of your economic energy and creativity.

China and Japan are hardly perfect analogies. For one thing, the Chinese population is literally 100 times bigger. But the basic economic challenges are similar, and China doesn't have the advantage of Japanese wealth. There will always be a lot of people in China, but too many of them will be too old. They will still make their mark on the world order, but it will be through diplomatic and economic means. As I said above, I'm predicting economic challenges for China, not economic collapse. China economy should hold strong for a good long while, and as far as their economic power goes, they have enormous leverage over the U.S. because of the trillions of dollars of debt they hold in U.S. Treasury Bonds. That is the sort of power that could be wielded even by a nation populated by little old ladies.

An example of how the Chinese will use their power can be seen right now in Africa and the Middle East, with an instructive situation being the fact that any Western efforts to enforce economic sanctions against Iran for its nuclear program are going to be toothless, because the Chinese and the Russians aren't going to play ball. This is entirely off the subject, but speaking of the Russians, they are already in a demographic death spiral: median age 38 (42 for the half of that actually has the babies), population growth -.5, and fertility rate 1.4. The Russians can cause trouble through international politics, but they won't be reviving the empire anytime soon, no matter how much Vladimir Putin wills it to be so.

So as for the Chinese military, forget about it. They won't even have the young men needed to fill a great military machine. I would imagine that any attempt to actually use that military could provoke total rebellion by the millions of parents who would never accept their only hopes for the future get sent off to war. One can't build an empire with a nation of only children.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Korea in China

Here's another attempt at using up some old pictures.

One might expect that, having moved to China, I would spend a lot of time with Chinese people. Not so. However, I spend a lot of time with Koreans. Several major Korean corporations have operations in Suzhou, and they tend to go much deeper into the rank and file when then send employees here (as opposed to the Western companies, who typically only send high-level engineers, managers, and accountants). That is apparently a sore spot with the Chinese government, which I have heard pressures the Koreans to give more of those jobs to Chinese workers.

I digress, as usual. As I said, I spend a lot of time with Koreans. I never really knew any Koreans before I came here, and I like them. The kids are, for the most part, friendly and hard-working. Too hard working, in some cases. A lot of these poor kids finish school only to go to Korean schools all over again for the evening. Many of the kids (in particular, the girls) are incredible musicians as well. I was at the elementary school talent show last year. It was pretty impressive.

And of course, let's not forget the Korean food, which I have really developed a taste for.

The Korean kids are very, very partial to all things Korean. When we take them on school trips, they always bring bundles of mom-packed food, in little nested boxes and neat packages (all to save them from having to eat anything Chinese). Sometimes, their enthusiasm is better described as nationalism. Case in point, have you ever heard of Dokdu Island? Talk to a Korean for a few minutes and you will. It is a rocky speck of an island halfway between South Korean and Japan. It is officially accepted as Korean territory (and they have two caretakers stationed on it to make sure the claim is firm).

However, occasionally, Japan makes noises that it rightfully belongs to them. There have literally been street protests in South Korea over this, including bizarro stuff like when a college student sliced his fingertips and wrote his loyalty to Dokdu in his own blood. At school, I have had to reprimand kids for starting up arguments over it. In the library, atlases and even wall maps have been hand marked to show Dokdu, and remind everyone who it belongs to. This is in addition to the fact that the same maps have often been defaced so that the "Sea of Japan" has been renamed the "Sea of Korea".

I digress again. Below are some pictures of some art from some of the Korean 4th graders from last year. They have nothing to do whatsoever with anything I said above. They just made me laugh. For this assignment, the kids were supposed to draw a picture illustrating "empathy". They had some interesting interpretations. Names have been blocked out.



This one if from a very sweet girl who was one of my favorites. If your friend will cry over your dead dog with you, she is a true friend.




I'm not sure what this kid was thinking. Perhaps he has heard the expression "walk a mile in his shoes".




This is the best one. This kid really didn't get the concept.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

A quick post

Between the fact that I have no time, and we continue to dither as to the future of our blog plans (see last post), I haven't had anything to say. In the meantime, I'll through out a picture. This is an advertisement I saw in the Beijing subway that made me laugh. Hip young popstar types are routinely used to advertise all manner of products. But kitchen range hoods?

Does it come in candy iPod colors? Are the other kids jealous? Does this punk even know how to cook?